Go to the content

Expressivity in gemstones

Creation begins with the stone itself. The gemstone lies at the heart of every gem-set timepiece, serving as the starting point of its conception. These gemstones are carefully sourced and selected, ultimately resulting in rare timepieces. Gemology is where aesthetics meet precision, and beauty meets value. The Maison incorporates precious stones, fine stones, and synthetic stones to embellish its intricate movements. Whether set on the dial, bezel, or skeleton and carefully chosen for their quality, brilliance and expressivity, gemstones infuse calibres with emotional depth technical mastery.

The Eternal Gem

Diamonds

The Maison crafts expressive timepieces using first class diamonds, meticulously cut in both baguette and brilliant styles. When selecting a diamond, the "4Cs" are essential: Carat, Color Grade, Clarity Grade (VVS+ only) and Cut Grade. While being extremely bright, diamonds are also the hardest natural mineral: only one diamond can cut another diamond.  

The image showcases the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Watch RDDBEX0989, distinguished by its diamond-set case, white strap, and skeletonized dial that reveals a complex mechanical movement with a tourbillon. It is presented against an elegant background with sparkling crystal elements.
The image shows the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon RDDBEX0989 watch worn on the wrist of a person wearing a white jacket, in an elegant and minimalist setting.

The Romantic Gem

Ruby

For centuries, rubies have captured hearts, often earning the title of 'romantic king' among gemstones. While known for its iconic red hue, rubies actually boast a diverse palette of reds - each tone radiating its own unique charm. Rubies are prized for their hardness and clarity, telling a story of fiery origins and long-lasting beauty.

The image is a detailed close-up of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Central Tourbillon RDDBEX1122 watch, highlighting its complex central tourbillon mechanism and gem-encrusted dial, including baguette-cut diamonds and red stones, all in gold and dark tones.

The Prosperity Gem

Sapphire

Long associated with royalty, the sapphire evokes an air of timeless elegance and sophistication. While the name "sapphire" often recalls deep blue hues, these gemstones actually occur in a breathtaking variety of colors.  

The image is a close-up of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon RDDBEX1134 watch, highlighting its rose gold case and bezel adorned with baguette-cut blue sapphires and diamonds.
The image shows the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon RDDBEX1134 watch on the wrist of a person wearing a blue shirt. The rose gold case, the bezel set with blue sapphires and diamonds, and the white strap are visible in an elegant, slightly dark setting.

The creative gems

Fine gemstones

Tourmalines, spinels, garnets, and precious spessartites – are the creative gemstones that bring playfulness and expressivity to timepieces. Unlike traditional gems, these stones offer a spectrum of hues expressing a sense of joy and individuality.

The image is a detailed close-up of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Double Tourbillon RDDBEX1130 watch. It highlights the skeletonized dial with its star motif adorned with warm-hued gemstones (orange, red, yellow). On the left side, a faceted element with gradient colors from orange to pink completes the composition.
The image shows the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Double Tourbillon RDDBEX1130 watch on the wrist of a person wearing a dark suit and white shirt. The watch features a gold case, a black strap, and a skeletonized dial adorned with warm-colored gemstones (yellow, orange, red), highlighting its intricate mechanism.

Securing beauty

Refined settings

Behind every gemstone set in a timepiece lies a dedication to precision, patience, and unwavering attention to detail. Combining aesthetic refinement with technical performance, the Maison’s creations feature four types of gemstones settings:

The image is a detailed close-up of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon RDDBEX1134 watch, highlighting the rail setting of its bezel. It shows blue sapphires and baguette-cut diamonds aligned in a rose gold case, with part of the skeletonized dial and the Maison name visible.

Rail setting

offers a sleek and modern look, where stones are securely slid between two parallel metal channels or rails

The image is a close-up of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Double-tourbillon Watch RDDBEX1183, highlighting its rose gold case and the invisible baguette-cut diamond setting on the bezel. A blue strap is also visible.

Invisible setting

uses grooved stones that slide onto hidden rails, creating a smooth, borderless look

The image is a detailed close-up of a Roger Dubuis watch, highlighting a claw setting for an emerald which is surrounded by baguette-cut diamonds, all on a textured green background, probably a bracelet, with the inscription "SWISS MADE" visible.

Prong setting

a classic choice, where prongs or claws are folded over the crown of the stone, highlighting its brilliance

The image shows a close-up of the grain setting of diamonds on the bezel of a Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon RDDBEX0989 watch. The meticulously set precious stones are visible.

Grain setting

showcases delicate metal beads raised from the mount to hold the stone, adding a touch of vintage charm and intricate detail

Vivid color and lasting allure

Synthetic gemstomes

Synthetic gemstones offer significant advantages in both technical movement and aesthetic aspects of a timepiece. Their vivid saturation enables innovative applications such as the use of Super-LumiNova for enhanced visibility. Beyond their visual appearance, these stones present high durability and longevity, guaranteeing reliable performance over time.

The image shows a close-up of a wrist wearing the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier Blacklight RDDBEX0950 watch, characterized by its skeletonized dial adorned with phosphorescent synthetic stones in neon shades of pink, purple, and blue, which stand out against a dark background.

Responsible sourcing: a core value

Ethics and sourcing

Ethical sourcing is at the heart of the Maison’s commitment to responsible craftsmanship. All stones are certified by the Responsible Jewellery Council and comply with the Kimberley Process, ensuring traceability and transparency across the supply chain. The Responsible Jewellery Council is the world’s leading sustainability standard-setting organization for the jewelry and watch industry, ensuring that responsible standards are upheld globally. The Kimberley Process reinforces this commitment by removing the circulation of conflict of diamonds.