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The Art Of Decoration

Expressivity was crucial to the vision of the founders - and it remains essential to every creation that is crafted in the Manufacture today. For the watchmakers, this expressivity is often achieved through employing unexpected decorations, including various techniques and materials, and artfully transforming the structures of the intricate mechanical movement into a canvas for artistic expression.

Hand-finished decoration

Excellence as signature

The finest aesthetics are best achieved through a meticulous human touch. In keeping with the demanding standards of Poinçon de Genève certification, the watchmakers hand-finish every component of a calibre – the visible ones and those that are hidden. This is the philosophy of excellence. Thus, a single calibre can be made with more than 600 components and be decorated with more than 20 distinctive techniques.

This image shows a hand holding fine tweezers putting the finishing touches on the components of a Roger Dubuis MONOBALANCIER Blacklight Spin-Stone™ watch. The watch's hands and crown are positioned around the case.

Signature Mirror Polish

Unique Craft, Enduring Shine

One signature decoration of the Maison is the mirror polish. To obtain the shiny effect that can be observed on the upper cage of the tourbillons, the operator traces the component on a finely powdered abrasive surface in the shape of a number 8 - recalling the lucky number Mr. Roger Dubuis. This is repeated multiple times until the perfect shine is obtained – a process that requires patience and determination. More surprising, there is no school that teaches this technique. Each craftsmen develops their own specific method and uses their own dedicated tools, making this savoir-faire unique. This knowledge is perpetuated by being passed on from one skilled operator to another.

This image shows a hand holding fine tweezers putting the finishing touches on the components of a Roger Dubuis MONOBALANCIER Blacklight Spin-Stone™ watch. The watch's hands and crown are positioned around the case.

Métier d’art

Dedication To

Watchmaking and artistry are never far apart, especially in Geneva. Some of the most iconic examples of métier d’art include the painted enamel dials of timepieces from the past, and more recently, the dial and the micro sculptures in the Knights of the Round table collection. Each knight is born from a meticulous craftsmanship process. From the initial drawings, resin mock-ups are created in perfect proportions. 3D scans are then taken, followed by moulding and casting in 18K Pink Gold, resulting in figures that are 6mm tall. The skilled craftsmen then bring the final refined appearance to life. It takes one to three days to manually engrave each knight and detail the slimmest weapons or the subtle nuances of a helmet - requiring a masterful level of patience and finesse. Finally, a black patina is also applied to the knights, helping to soften the brightness and reveal the creases, contrasts, and smallest details of their relief. The mastery of decorative arts is also embodied in Hommage La Placide. With a meticulously worked mother-of-pearl dial, the timepiece showcases depth, exceptional finesse and luminous expressivity.

This image shows fingers holding a precise tool working on one of the figurines of a Roger Dubuis watch from the Knights Of The Round Table collection.
The image juxtaposes raw gemstones and a gem-set watch component, creating an interesting visual contrast that highlights the craftsmanship and precision required to create exceptional pieces.

Expressivity through gems

Gemstones can only elevate a timepiece itself and the experience of the wearer. From sapphires, rubies and emeralds, through to tourmalines, amethysts and diamonds, each precious stone is carefully selected by the Maison for impactful colour and shape. It’s an addition of beauty that brings story and emotion to the heart of a design.

Expressivity Further

Shared Theatricality

Pushing its decoration even further, creativity is shared with friends. The Maison even invited some of them to reinterpret its signature star, using the skeleton dial as a canvas of expressivity. Such collaborations have resulted in masterpieces of unique aesthetics while also giving birth to new techniques. For instance, in the partnership with Hajime Sorayama, the micro-rotor and astral signature skeleton design were reimagined. Similarly, inspired by Dr. Woo’s needle work, some exceptional methods have been adopted to etch metalized gold onto sapphire, recreating the fine and meticulous striking design style imagined by the artist.